Button Machine Beginner's Guide

American Button Machines

Let's Make Your First Button

Welcome! You just opened your kit, and this guide walks you through it start to finish. It covers every ABM machine and cutter, so wherever they differ, just open the block that matches what you have.

Look for the blue bars you can tap open, like 1″ machine vs. all other sizes, or your cutter type.

Step 1

What's In Your Box

Get to know the parts and what each one is called. Your printed graphic always sits between the front shell and the clear mylar. Open your machine type:

1″ Machine collet system + separate pin

1 inch button parts: shell, graphic, mylar, collet and spring pin

Front ShellThe metal top loads sharp edges down into the shallow die.
Graphic + Clear MylarYour art picture-side up, then the mylar on top.
Collet BackThe 1″ back. Sharp side up in the deeper side.
SpringpinA separate piece that slides into the collet by hand after pressing. No glue.

Making a medallion? 1″ medallions use the crimp die adapter, included free with every new 1″ machine. See the third-press finish in Step 4. Learn More →

All Other Machines 1.25″–3.5″ · pre-pinned backs

2.25 inch pinback button set: shell, graphic, mylar and pre-pinned back

Front ShellThe metal top loads sharp edges down into the shallow die.
GraphicYour printed art, picture-side up.
Clear MylarThe thin clear disc that protects your art.
Pre-Pinned BackOne piece, with the pin already attached. Sharp edges up into the deeper die.

Tip: front shells nest together. Separate them with a magnet, or just drop them on your desk, since two stuck shells in one die is the #1 cause of a jam.

Step 2

Know Your Machine

Four parts to learn, and that's the whole press.

ABM button maker press showing handle, upper die, pickup (shallow) die and crimp (deep) die

1
HandlePull it down to press. All your power comes from here.
2
Upper DiePresses straight down from the top.
3
Pickup Die (shallow, on the right)Holds the shell, graphic and mylar.
4
Crimp Die (deep, on the left)Holds the back. The platform swivels between Pickup and Crimp.

Step 3

How to Cut Your Graphics

Print your art, then cut it to size. Your circle is cut a little larger than the finished button so the edge wraps the shell.

Graphic Punch table-top press-down

Insert your printed strip and center the image in the window.
Press the handle straight down until the punch goes all the way through.
Remove the cut circle and set it aside.
Pull through to the next image and repeat.

Watch: Using Your Graphic Punch

Punches cut one graphic at a time and won't cut card stock or anything thicker than photo paper. Jammed? Run a playing card through front-to-back to clear it. Shop graphic punches →

Dynamo Hand-Held Punch squeeze-style

Slide your printed strip into the Dynamo's slot.
Line up your image in the centering window so the cut lands where you want.
Squeeze the handle firmly to punch a clean circle.
Release, remove the circle, and slide to the next image.

Watch: how to use the Dynamo punch cutter

Watch: Using the Dynamo Punch

Great for cutting on the go. Shop Dynamo punches →

Adjustable Circle Cutter swivel-blade

Adjustable circle cutter, multiple views

Set the size for your button. Templates start at 1″, so follow the cutter's instructions to enlarge.
Line it up — start by lining up the image in the template window with your sheet.
Push the handle down and cut in a circular motion.
Lift out your cut graphic and repeat.

Watch: how to use the adjustable circle cutter

Watch: Using Your Circle Cutter

Shop circle cutters →

Using pre-cut paper circles? No cutting needed, since they arrive sized to your button. Just stack and press. Reorder pre-cut paper →

Step 4

Make a Button

Watch it once, then follow the steps. Remember: shells load sharp-edges down, backs sharp-edges up, and only one piece goes in each die. Open your machine type:

1″ Machine collet + hand-set pin

Watch: How to Make a 1″ Button

Open the press. Lift the red handle and point it away from you; swivel the die open. Pickup (shallow) die on the left, Crimp (deep) die on the right.
Load the Pickup die. Front shell sharp-edges down, then graphic picture-up, then clear mylar. Top of the graphic at 12 o'clock.
Load the Crimp die. Place the collet in, sharp-edges up (instead of a pinned back).
First press. Rotate the Pickup die clockwise under the upper die; pull the handle down and raise.
Second press. Rotate the Crimp die counter-clockwise under the upper die; pull the handle down and raise. Rotate clockwise and remove the button.
Add the pin by hand. Slide the spring pin into the collet. It snaps in, no glue.

Medallions (no pin): for the third-press finish, once your medallion is complete, put the finished medallion back in the front die and press it again. This flattens your medallion. Attach an adhesive pin or foam disc after.

All Other Machines 1.25″–3.5″ · pre-pinned back

Watch: How to Make a Pinback Button

Open the press. Lift the red handle and point it away from you; swivel the die open. Pickup (shallow) die is on the left, Crimp (deep) die on the right.
Load the Pickup die. Front shell sharp-edges down, then graphic picture-up, then clear mylar. Tip: top of the graphic at 12 o'clock.
Load the Crimp die. Pre-pinned back, sharp-edges up. Tip: top of the pin just right of 6 o'clock, since the upper die shifts slightly as it rotates.
First press. Rotate the Pickup die clockwise under the upper die. Pull the handle all the way down, then raise it.
Second press. Rotate the Crimp die counter-clockwise under the upper die. Pull the handle down, then raise it.
Release. Rotate clockwise and lift out your finished button. Flip it over and the pin is ready to wear.

Good to know

Tips for Great Buttons

A few habits that save every beginner a pile of scrap.

Do

Use 24# bond paper (inkjet is the easiest, most trouble-free).
Load one piece per die: shell up top, back down below.
Pull the handle all the way down each time for a tight crimp.
Keep a magnet nearby to separate nested shells.

Don't

Don't use card stock or anything thicker than standard printer paper for 1″–2.25″ machines, or photo paper for 3″–3.5″ machines.
Don't force the handle if the die won't rotate. Clear it first.
Don't stack two graphics or two backs in one die.
Don't skip the mylar. It's what protects your art.

Using a laser printer and seeing bubbles at the edge? Toner can trap air. Reduce your bleed by about .125″ or run a silicone stick on the die, or just switch to inkjet.

Fix it fast

Common Issues

Most hiccups have a one-line fix.

If this happens	Try this
Bubbles under the mylar	Usually laser toner. Switch to inkjet, shrink your art's bleed by ~.125″, or run a silicone stick on the die.
Crimp feels loose	Tighten the machine bolts and use 24# paper. When tightening, only tighten the outside top bolts (the black ones, not the silver). A loose crimp is almost always under-pressing or thin paper.
Die won't rotate / shell stuck	Don't force it. A shell has likely nested in the die. Remove it with a magnet, then continue.
Graphic punch jammed	Run a playing card through the punch front-to-back to push the trapped paper out. Keep the cutter clean.
Paint flaking on a new machine	Normal and cosmetic. It happens where the handle meets the rollers and won't affect your buttons.

Watch: How to Unjam a Button Maker

Keep it running

Care & Maintenance

A little upkeep and your press lasts for years.

A little grease is normalThe dies need some grease to rotate smoothly and the punch handle to move freely. If excess gets on the base or in a die, wipe it off with a soft cloth.
Keep dies and cutter cleanBrush away paper dust and bits. A silicone stick helps the mylar seat cleanly if you print on a laser.
Press fully, every timeFull strokes keep crimps tight and prevent half-made buttons.
Stiff on the first use?When your machine first arrives the grease can be firm, so the first rotation may take extra force. Give it a firm push, or let it sit for about an hour to loosen up, and it will turn smoothly.

Full lubrication & maintenance guide →

Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

The ones we hear most from new button makers.

Do I need special paper to make buttons?

No. Standard 24# bond or regular inkjet printer paper works great. Use photo paper only on photo-calibrated equipment, and avoid card stock, which is too thick and can jam the machine.

Do I really need a graphic cutter?

Yes. The cut size is larger than the finished button so the edge wraps the shell (a 1″ button needs a 1.313″ cut). Craft-store punches are sized to the button, so they won't work. You'll need an ABM punch or circle cutter.

What size does my graphic cut to?

Always a little larger than the button: a 1″ graphic cuts to 1.313″ and a 2.25″ graphic cuts to 2.625″. Each size has its own punch or cutter setting.

Why are there bubbles under my mylar?

It's usually laser-printer toner trapping air at the edge. Switch to an inkjet print, reduce your bleed by about .125″, or run a silicone stick across the die before pressing.

IMPORTANT: Apply only to the tapered edge. This is the area causing the mylar to slip on the graphic and not wrap correctly. By applying the silicone in this manner, the edge becomes less resistant and allows the mylar and graphic to fold perfectly in the back of the button.

My crimp feels loose. What's wrong?

Tighten the machine bolts and make sure you're using 24# paper, and pull the handle all the way down on both presses. Loose crimps are almost always under-pressing or paper that's too thin.

The die won't rotate or a shell is stuck.

Front shells nest together. Don't force the handle. Separate the stuck shell (a magnet helps), make sure there's only one piece in each die, and continue.

What is the crimp die adapter for? (1″ machines)

It lets your 1″ machine make medallions. It's included free with every new 1″ machine. Medallions and other flat backs (1″, 2″, 6″) also use a third press to flatten the edge.

Is the paint flaking off my new machine a problem?

No. It's normal and purely cosmetic, usually where the handle meets the rollers, and it won't affect how your buttons turn out.

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